The 7 Most Popular Watches Every Collector Should Know

24 Sep, 2025

The 7 Most Popular Watches Every Collector Should Know

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

When the Royal Oak was launched in 1972, Audemars Piguet took one of the boldest steps in watchmaking history. At a time when quartz watches were threatening the industry, the brand commissioned Gérald Genta to design something that would stand apart. The result was the world’s first luxury sports watch in stainless steel, priced higher than most gold watches of the era. Its octagonal bezel with visible screws, integrated bracelet, and “Tapisserie” patterned dial became an instant talking point. Initially polarising, it went on to achieve cult status as collectors realised its fusion of sportiness and refinement was unlike anything else on the market. Today, the Royal Oak is regarded as one of the most iconic watches in the world, celebrated for both its trailblazing design and the way it redefined what luxury watchmaking could be. It remains a benchmark for sporty elegance, making it a perennial favourite at Second Movement.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer

The Aquaracer represents TAG Heuer’s enduring connection with aquatic sports and professional diving. With roots in the brand’s dive watches of the 1980s, the Aquaracer was officially launched in 2004 as a versatile collection designed to meet ISO standards for diver’s watches. Its defining elements include a unidirectional rotating bezel, bold luminescent markers, water resistance often up to 300 metres, and robust case construction. Yet, while it is fully equipped for the rigours of underwater exploration, the Aquaracer has also won admirers as a stylish everyday timepiece. Its balance of tool-watch functionality with sleek, contemporary design makes it accessible to both seasoned divers and urban professionals. Over the years, the Aquaracer has been refined with materials like ceramic and titanium, yet it continues to deliver dependable performance. It has been widely recognised as one of the most popular watches for those seeking a reliable, entry-level luxury diver’s watch.

Breitling Navitimer

First introduced in 1952, it was designed specifically for pilots, with its most distinctive feature being the circular slide rule bezel. This allowed aviators to calculate flight plans, speeds, fuel consumption, and distances long before digital tools were available. Its chronograph functions added another layer of technical utility, making it a true instrument for professionals of the skies. While its heritage is steeped in cockpit use, the Navitimer also gained widespread popularity beyond aviation, thanks to its bold looks and functional complexity. The busy, highly legible dial with contrasting sub-dials has become instantly recognisable among enthusiasts. Collectors admire it as both a technical marvel and a stylish statement piece. Decades later, the Navitimer remains a symbol of precision and adventure, prized by pilots, frequent travellers, and those who want a chronograph with unmatched history and credibility.

Hublot Big Bang

When Hublot launched the Big Bang in 2005, it was nothing short of disruptive. Spearheaded by Jean-Claude Biver, the collection embodied Hublot’s “Art of Fusion” philosophy, which brought together materials rarely seen in watchmaking—gold with ceramic, carbon fibre with titanium, and, of course, the brand’s signature natural rubber straps. Its bold, oversized cases and highly architectural design quickly caught the eye of those seeking a contemporary and daring aesthetic. More than just a watch, the Big Bang became a cultural phenomenon, adopted by athletes, musicians, and celebrities around the world. Its skeletonised movements, chronograph functions, and experimental editions pushed the boundaries of modern watch design. While traditionalists initially questioned its audacity, the Big Bang ultimately carved out a new category of luxury watches that blended avant-garde style with fine horology. Today, it stands as Hublot’s flagship, an icon of modernity and innovation that thrives on pushing limits.

Omega Speedmaster And Seamaster

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is one of the most storied timepieces ever created. Introduced in 1957 as a chronograph for motorsports, it went on to achieve legendary status through its association with NASA. After passing a series of gruelling tests in 1965, it became the official watch for all manned space missions, culminating in its role as the first watch worn on the moon during Apollo 11 in 1969. Its manual-winding calibre, tachymeter bezel, and robust case construction cemented its reliability in extreme conditions. Beyond its technical merits, the Speedmaster embodies the spirit of exploration and remains one of the most celebrated and collectible chronographs in the world.

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, launched in 1993, continued the brand’s strong maritime legacy that began in 1948. Gaining global recognition as James Bond’s watch of choice in GoldenEye, it quickly became an icon of both diving and cinema. Its helium escape valve, scalloped bezel, skeleton hands, and wave-pattern dial give it a distinct character, while water resistance up to 300 metres ensures professional-grade performance. Modern versions come with co-axial calibres and METAS certification, offering precision and durability. Balancing sporty resilience with refined style, the Seamaster Diver 300M has established itself as one of the most popular watches among both adventurers and collectors.

Cartier Santos

The Cartier Santos holds a unique place in watch history as one of the very first wristwatches ever made. In 1904, Louis Cartier created it for his friend, aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who needed a practical timepiece he could read mid-flight. Its square case, exposed screws, and seamless integration of case and bracelet were groundbreaking, offering a bold departure from traditional round pocket watches. Over time, it evolved into a symbol of elegance and innovation, straddling the worlds of jewellery and horology. Its refined design appeals equally to men and women, with versions in steel, gold, or two-tone, often paired with Cartier’s signature Roman numerals. The Santos has remained a favourite for over a century because it combines timeless aesthetics with an extraordinary legacy. It is one of those rare watches that feels equally appropriate in formal and casual settings, making it universally appealing and highly collectible.

Panerai Luminor

Developed in the mid-20th century for the Italian Navy, it was designed to be exceptionally legible underwater and in low-light conditions. Its defining feature is the patented crown-protecting bridge, which enhances water resistance while giving the watch its unmistakable silhouette. Large cushion-shaped cases and luminous dials with sandwich construction add to its rugged appeal. Originally a strictly military instrument, it entered the civilian market in the 1990s and quickly gained cult status. Collectors were drawn to its oversized dimensions and bold, minimalist design, a refreshing alternative to more traditional luxury watches. The Luminor’s popularity also grew thanks to celebrity endorsements, reinforcing its status as a statement piece. Today, it is celebrated for its blend of military heritage and modern masculinity, making it one of the most popular watches in the world.

Every serious collector should own a mix of iconic models that shaped watchmaking history. Examples include the Rolex Submariner for dive heritage, the Omega Speedmaster for chronograph history, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak for sport-luxury design, and the Patek Philippe Calatrava for timeless dress watch elegance. Together, they represent the foundations of a versatile collection.

For newcomers, entry-level models offer history, reliability, and strong value. The TAG Heuer Aquaracer provides accessible diving pedigree, while the Breitling Navitimer is a legendary aviation chronograph. Other great options include the Tudor Black Bay, Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, and Seiko Prospex divers. These watches balance heritage with affordability, making them excellent starting points.

The “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking refers to Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. These maisons are revered for their craftsmanship, heritage, and technical mastery. Collectors prize their watches not only for mechanical innovation but also for consistent value and prestige within the luxury watch world.