When Audemars Piguet unveiled the Code 11.59 collection in January 2019, the horological world collectively held its breath. Here was a manufacture, renowned for its iconic Royal Oak, boldly venturing into uncharted territory. The chronograph variant, particularly the reference 26393NR.OO.A002KB.01 with its ceramic case middle, represents perhaps the most compelling expression of this hotly debated collection, a timepiece that demands contemplation rather than immediate acceptance.

Revolutionary Genesis

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 arrived as a deliberate provocation, a response to murmured criticisms that the venerable maison had become overly reliant on Gerald Genta’s masterpiece. The launch featured an impressive array of 13 timepieces powered by six entirely new movements, a technical tour de force that unequivocally silenced questions about the manufacturer’s horological capabilities.

Among these remarkable calibres, the self-winding chronograph movement stood as perhaps the most significant technical achievement. As experienced watchmakers will attest, creating a chronograph mechanism presents challenges far exceeding those of developing even a tourbillon. 

Architectural Marvel of Code 11.59

The timepiece presents an evolutionary advancement from the original Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 design, incorporating a ceramic case middle that transforms the visual experience entirely. The 41mm case construction remains an engineering triumph, with screws running directly from the caseback through the middle section and into the bezel, creating an exceptionally robust structure.

The original Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 design

This architectural approach extends to the unique lugs, which attach only to the upper portion of the case, creating the visual illusion that the timepiece floats upon the wrist. The double-curved sapphire crystal, domed internally while curved vertically from 12 to six o’clock, further enhances this sense of three-dimensionality, generating fascinating optical effects as one’s angle of observation shifts.

The combination of 18k pink gold with black ceramic creates a striking contrast that emphasises the elaborate hand-finishing applied throughout. Every surface displays meticulous attention, brushed planes transition to polished edges with mathematical precision. 

Mechanical Excellence

Powering this creation is the manufacture calibre 4401, a thoroughly modern interpretation of the classic chronograph complication. This self-winding movement features a vertical clutch mechanism designed for seamless operation and precise actuation. The engineering approach prioritises reliability at every level, from the ceramic ball bearings supporting the oscillating weight to the uniform reset hammers controlled by a single lever.

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 26393NR.OO.A002KB.01: A closer look

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The column wheel control system employs scientifically optimised tooth profiles that reduce friction while maintaining precision. The movement delivers a substantial 70-hour power reserve. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour with characteristic stability.

The movement decoration merits special consideration beyond technical specifications. Rather than adopting traditional Geneva finishing solely for its historical significance, Audemars Piguet has developed an aesthetic that prioritises geometric clarity. Angular bridges and modern finishing create visual harmony with the case architecture. 

Dial Sophistication

The smoked grey dial provides a subtly dramatic backdrop for the chronograph displays. Vertically satin-finished to create gentle light play, it features applied hour markers in pink gold that echo the warmth of the case elements. The chronograph registers maintain perfect proportional balance, ensuring legibility without compromising aesthetic refinement.

The smoked grey dial provides a subtly dramatic backdrop for the chronograph displays. Vertically satin-finished to create gentle light play, it features applied hour markers in pink gold that echo the warmth of the case elements

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The applied Audemars Piguet signature, executed in pink gold, demonstrates the manufacture’s attention to even the smallest details. This refinement extends to the hands, which provide exceptional contrast against the dial surface.

Controversial Yet Compelling

To experience the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 chronograph on the wrist is to engage with a timepiece of fascinating contradictions. From directly above, it presents almost minimalist restraint, yet rotate the watch slightly and its complex architecture reveals itself through dramatic interplays of light and shadow. This visual transformation occurs so dramatically that one might momentarily believe the timepiece has been exchanged through some horological sleight of hand.

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The creation draws upon classic Geneva finishing traditions while embracing angular geometries that would have astonished Gerald Genta himself, perhaps even appalled. Yet this tension between tradition and innovation perfectly embodies the Audemars Piguet motto: “To break the rules, you must first master them.”

The Vanguard of Horological Evolution

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 chronograph represents a fascinating horological experiment of considerable significance. It challenges our preconceptions about luxury watchmaking with unapologetic confidence. It expands our understanding of what contemporary haute horlogerie might become.

The Royal Oak emerged in 1972 as a revolutionary statement that transformed the industry. Five decades later, the Code 11.59 collection attempts a similarly audacious redefinition. Whether it achieves the same iconic status remains uncertain, but its significance in the evolution of Audemars Piguet is undeniable. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Chronograph represents technical brilliance in physical form. Its aesthetically challenging nature requires substantial engagement to truly appreciate.