Audemars Piguet commands a rare position in Swiss watchmaking. For some, the Royal Oak’s octagonal bezel is the first image that comes to mind, a design that changed the course of luxury watches in the 1970s. Others think of the maison’s refined complications, such as perpetual calendars, tourbillons, and repeaters that highlight another side of its craft. However they are viewed, Audemars Piguet watches have held their own, sustaining a reputation built on independence and innovation. At Second Movement, that spirit is evident, where these watches carry stories, preserve value, and often grow in significance as they pass from one collector to another.

History Of Audemars Piguet

Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste Piguet, the founders of Audemars Piguet

The story began in 1875, when Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste Piguet set up a workshop in Le Brassus. Each brought complementary skills: Audemars developed complicated mechanisms, while Piguet focused on regulation and finishing. What started as a small workshop producing movements for others soon grew into a maison with its own name on the dial.

In the early decades, the brand became known for pieces that few attempted, from minute repeaters to skeletonised calibres. In the 1950s, it introduced one of the thinnest perpetual calendars of its time, combining mechanical sophistication with elegance. Then the quartz crisis of the 1970s shook the watch industry, with many rivals closing or being absorbed, yet Audemars Piguet remained independent. In 1972, it launched the Royal Oak, a steel sports watch that challenged convention by proving stainless steel could carry the prestige once reserved for gold.

The Defining Collections Of Audemars Piguet

Over almost one hundred and fifty years, Audemars Piguet has crafted numerous pieces. Yet a few families of models stand out. These are the creations people recognise first, the ones that built the brand’s name and still drive interest among collectors today.

1. Royal Oak

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watches at Second Movement

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The Royal Oak arrived in 1972 and quickly became one of the most influential designs in watchmaking. Created by Gérald Genta, it introduced a look that had not been seen before: an octagonal bezel secured with visible screws, a seamless steel bracelet, and proportions that gave the watch a confident presence. At a time when gold was considered the standard for luxury, choosing stainless steel was a bold step. Collectors soon recognised its originality, and the Royal Oak gave Audemars Piguet watches a design language that still defines the maison today.

Over the years, the Royal Oak has evolved in size, materials, and complications. Versions in yellow gold, titanium, and ceramic have joined the family, yet each still carries the character of the first “Jumbo.” Early references remain highly sought after, particularly the steel models that command strong premiums. Limited editions and unusual dial variations also attract keen attention, reinforcing the Royal Oak’s reputation as both a design icon and a lasting collector’s piece.

2. Royal Oak Offshore

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore watches at Second Movement

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The Royal Oak Offshore made its debut in 1993, bringing a new dimension to Audemars Piguet’s identity. Larger, bolder, and more robust than the original Royal Oak, it was designed to capture the spirit of sport and adventure while retaining the elegance of fine watchmaking. At first, the scale surprised collectors, but its presence soon carved out a loyal following.

Chronographs quickly became the signature of the line, while Diver models added practical strength to the collection. Over the years, the Offshore embraced materials such as titanium and ceramic alongside traditional steel, and its use of colour and limited editions gave it a voice distinct from the Royal Oak. The Royal Oak Offshore continues to resonate with collectors who admire its confident design and striking variations, making it one of the most recognisable sport-luxury watches in modern horology.

3. Code 11.59

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 watches at Second Movement

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When Audemars Piguet introduced Code 11.59 in 2019, it was clear that the maison was willing to take risks beyond the Royal Oak family. The collection presented a round case at first glance, yet closer inspection revealed a complex architecture with an octagonal middle, open lugs, and a curved crystal that played with light. It was a deliberate move to create a modern line that stood apart, showing the brand’s ability to innovate while respecting its heritage.

The reception in its early years was divided, but as new references appeared, collectors began to appreciate the depth of finishing and the variety of complications. Today, the line includes everything from simple three-hand models to perpetual calendars and flying tourbillons, each executed with the same care as the maison’s classics.

Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 with a vibrant green textured dial and slim steel case balances modern detailing with everyday refinement

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Early time-only versions are more accessible, while the complicated models, particularly chronographs and tourbillons, continue to hold strong appeal among discerning buyers.

4. Millenary

Audemars Piguet Millenary watches at Second Movement

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The Millenary collection, first introduced in the mid-1990s, offered a strikingly different vision of watch design from Audemars Piguet. Instead of sharp angles and bold bezels, the Millenary carried an oval case with off-centre dials that revealed much of the movement beneath. The result was architectural, almost theatrical, giving wearers a sense of both artistry and mechanics on display.

Some models featured open-worked or skeletonised movements, while others leaned toward gem-setting and high decoration, particularly in creations aimed at women. What tied them together was the level of hand-finishing and the way details of the calibre were placed in clear view, making the movement part of the dial’s design.

The Millenary holds a special place for collectors who value individuality. Audemars Piguet watches’ distinctive style and craftsmanship continue to attract those looking for something more unconventional.

Other Iconic Creations

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The Jules Audemars collection pays homage to one of Audemars Piguet’s co-founders, Jules Louis Audemars. Named to celebrate his vision and contribution to haute horlogerie, the collection reflects the elegance and precision that defined the brand from its earliest days. Characterised by round cases, understated dials, and meticulously finished movements, Jules Audemars watches blend classical watchmaking traditions with modern refinements, offering timepieces that honour the maison’s heritage while appealing to today’s discerning collectors.

The Royal Oak Concept series reflects another approach, pushing design and engineering into the future. With sculptural cases, advanced materials, and boundary-pushing mechanics, these Audemars Piguet watches often serve as a platform for innovation.

High complications also remain a defining part of Audemars Piguet’s identity. Grand sonneries, openworked perpetual calendars, and intricate tourbillons continue to demonstrate the maison’s mastery at the very top of watchmaking.