Since its introduction in 1953, the Rolex Submariner has set the benchmark for dive watches. It was the first timepiece to achieve 100 metres of water resistance, thanks to Rolex’s patented Oyster case, and it featured a rotatable bezel to help divers track immersion time. While designed for underwater performance, the Submariner quickly transcended its professional purpose to become one of the most recognisable and versatile watches in the world.

Built to endure, the Submariner’s early appeal lay in its clarity, robustness, and simplicity. The luminous hour markers, Mercedes-style hands, and legible dial made it easy to read in low-light conditions, a trait that remains central to its design today. Over the decades, the watch has moved effortlessly from deep-sea diving to boardrooms and black-tie events, proving that utility and elegance can coexist.

Milestones And Evolution

The earliest Submariner references — 6204 and 6205 — established the core aesthetic: a black dial, rotating bezel, and water-resistant case. By the mid-1950s, Reference 6538 had entered the public imagination, notably worn on screen in early James Bond films. The 1960s brought significant functional upgrades, including crown guards and increased water resistance.

Reference 1680, introduced in the late 1960s, was the first Submariner to feature a date function and a Cyclops lens. The model line continued to evolve with sapphire crystal replacing acrylic in the 1980s, and the introduction of white gold surrounds for hour markers. In 2003, Rolex launched Reference 16610LV with a green bezel to celebrate the Submariner’s 50th anniversary, followed by Reference 116610LV in 2010 with a green dial and bezel.

The current generation includes references such as 124060 (no-date) and 126610LN (black bezel and dial), both updated with broader lugs, improved bracelet integration, and the calibre 3230 and 3235 movements respectively. Rolex’s Cerachrom bezels, introduced in 2008, added greater scratch resistance and UV stability. In 2020, the case diameter subtly increased from 40mm to 41mm, refining proportions while preserving the classic profile.

What Makes The Submariner Iconic

At its core, the Submariner is defined by functionality and legibility. A unidirectional bezel with 60-minute graduations allows precise timing of dives, while the Triplock crown and Oyster case ensure 300 metres of water resistance. The dial remains uncluttered, whether in the date or no-date variant, maintaining symmetry and instant readability. Material options include Oystersteel, white gold, and Rolesor (steel and yellow gold), each offering different expressions of the same design. Dial and bezel colours now range from traditional black to green and blue configurations, including reference 126613LB with a blue dial and bezel in steel and yellow gold. Bracelets are exclusively Oyster with a Glidelock extension system, enabling easy adjustment without tools—a practical feature for divers and daily wearers alike.

Inside, Rolex fits the Submariner with calibre 3230 or 3235, depending on the model. Both movements offer a 70-hour power reserve, Chronergy escapement, and enhanced shock resistance. The vertical integration of components and testing standards ensure long-term reliability. The consistency of design across decades, with subtle but meaningful improvements, keeps the Submariner both current and timeless.

Why Buy A Pre-Owned Rolex Submariner Watch For Men And Women

Due to high demand and limited availability, the Submariner is one of the most sought-after models on the secondary market. Collectors often turn to pre-owned options for access to discontinued or rare references, such as Reference 16610LV with its green bezel and black dial, or Reference 116619LB in white gold with a blue dial and bezel. Buying pre-owned also provides the opportunity to explore the evolution of the Submariner’s case proportions, movement upgrades, and more. In addition, the pre-owned space offers a broader snapshot of Submariner design through the decades, from vintage no-date models to bold two-tone executions, allowing buyers to select pieces that align not just with function, but with personal style and collecting philosophy. Each watch at Second Movement is inspected for authenticity and condition, offering buyers confidence in their purchase. With many Rolex Submariner watches for men and women showing consistent long-term value, a pre-owned model combines heritage, quality, and enduring appeal.

A Standard For Sport Watch Design

More than just a dive watch, the Submariner remains a symbol of precision, strength, and understated luxury. It continues to be one of the most complete and widely respected models in the Rolex catalogue, with a design that has stayed relevant through decades of innovation and cultural change.