Bovet: A Timeless Heritage of Swiss Watch Excellence

30 Nov, 2023

Bovet: A Timeless Heritage of Swiss Watch Excellence

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Staying one of the most appreciated brands in the industry for a whopping 200 years is a significant achievement that not many get to enjoy. Especially more so in the watchmaking industry, where technologies and the expectations of customers from the latest watches change like the tick of a second hand. But one brand that has successfully achieved this is Bovet. From gaining immense success in an entirely different continent to a change in ownership that vastly changed the direction of the brand while maintaining its incredible popularity, here is the story of the Swiss brand, Bovet.

The Birth of a Legendary Stalwart: The Beginning of Bovet

The roots of this Swiss maison can be traced back to the 1800s when watchmaker Edouard Bovet and his two brothers, Alphonse and Frédéric, left their home in Fleurier, Switzerland. Spending four years crafting intricate watches using the most recent technology and perfecting his sales skills in England, 1818 saw Bovet embark on a journey that ultimately led him to Canton and Guangzhou, both in China. The brothers struck gold here, with the impressive technology and precision extremely foreign to the local populace.

Thus, with the four timepieces they carried to the country, the Bovet name became synonymous with fine watchmaking. In 1822, Bovet Fleurier S.A. was officially founded, with the brothers operating a global distribution model with Edouard managing the Chinese market, Alphonse and Frédéric stationed in England, and youngest brother Henri managing production back in Fleurier. The brand began to blossom with Edouard’s efforts in China. Producing watches almost exclusively for the Chinese market, the glorious story of Bovet had just started.

Incredible Milestones Powered by Innovation

Since its inception, Bovet has been unwavering in its commitment to aesthetics, channelling its craftsmanship into creating meticulously finished dials, cases, and movements. Bovet is credited with pioneering the concept of the exhibition caseback, a visionary innovation that has found its place in an incredible number of fine watches today.

Innovation and design came together in the pocket watches made by the atelier in the early 19th century. These were cast in 18K gold, boasted elaborately painted enamel casebacks, complemented by enamel dials, bezels adorned with pearls or gemstones, and movements adorned with painstakingly crafted decorations. However, it was during this time that miniature paintings emerged as a hallmark of the brand, capturing the admiration of none other than the Emperor of China. In this way, for nearly two centuries, Bovet remained at the forefront of the decorative arts within the realm of watchmaking, continuously redefining the boundaries of luxury and craftsmanship.

A New Chapter Begins

In the wake of Edouard Bovet’s passing in 1849, the brand was entrusted to the capable hands of his brothers and their descendants, ensuring its continued presence and prestige in the world of horology. Over the ensuing decades, it continued to evolve and innovate, solidifying its reputation for crafting exceptional timepieces. A significant moment occurred in the maison’s history when the Chateau de Môtiers was generously gifted by Edouard’s great-grandchildren to the state in 1957. The castle was once the abode of this decorated family and became the place where the roots of the brand name were sown. So, a few years after Bovet’s passing, his descendants donated it to the state of Neuchâtel, Switzerland. And that is who it belonged to for more than a century, until 2001.

Then, in 2001, a transformative chapter began. Enter Pascal Raffy, a connoisseur and dedicated collector of fine timepieces. Raffy’s passion for horology led him to assume control of the Bovet brand, becoming its sole owner and curator of its storied heritage. In addition to acquiring the Chateau de Môtiers, Raffy also renamed the brand to Bovet 1822 in honour of the year Bovet was first founded while setting up the “Dimier 1738, Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Artisanale,” making the brand self-sufficient to experiment and innovate to its heart’s content.

This specialised manufacturing unit allowed the expert watchmakers to hone their expertise in crafting balance springs and the entire regulating organ of their timepieces. This mastery subsequently breathed life into watches that paid homage to the opulence of their historic pocket watch counterparts while combining the precise technology of recent times. But, in addition to such technological achievements connected to the initial roots of Bovet, another aspect soon became familiar to it, namely the brand becoming a family establishment. 2020 saw Raffy’s daughter, Audrey, stepping into the role of Vice President, bringing with her a fresh perspective and a familial dedication to the brand’s enduring legacy. These efforts by the Raffy family ultimately led to some of the most incredible collections and unique Bovet watches that have ever come to be.

Some Standout Bovet Watches

Bovet 19Thirty

The Bovet 19Thirty stands as a tribute to the timeless elegance of 1930s watch design. Personally conceived and designed by Pascal Raffy, the timepiece features stunning guilloche work on the two dials. Embodying the spirit of vintage timepieces, it features a round 42mm case with a distinctive crown bow at the top, reminiscent of classic pocket watches. The hand-decorated dial is a model of simplicity, displaying the HMS functions in two artistically crafted off-centre dials. Powered by a precise hand-wound movement visible through the exhibition caseback, the 19Thirty is a sophisticated choice.

Miss Audrey

For those with a penchant for feminine luxury, Miss Audrey from the Fleurier collection captures the essence of grace and sophistication. Tailored for women, the watch captures the old-school charm perfectly. But, it is not just the round 36mm case adorned with diamonds on the bezel and the hour indices that capture attention. While the stones do a great job of showcasing Bovet’s mastery in gem-setting, it is the watch’s versatility that takes the cake. The patented Amadeo® convertible system allows the watch to be worn in multiple ways—as a wristwatch, a necklace, or even a desk clock. Miss Audrey seamlessly marries aesthetic appeal with precision timekeeping, making it the perfect choice for those who appreciate both beauty and functionality in a timepiece.

Orbis Mundi

From the Fleurier collection, the Orbis Mundi is a stunning piece curated for tasteful globetrotters. The design and complications of this piece go beyond the conventional, featuring a dial adorned with a world map that tells you the time of all 24 time zones at a glance. The 42mm case houses the World Time dial made from pure Aventurine glass. The exposed in-house hairspring and escapement add depth to the already stunning dial, while the caseback gives you a peek into the backside of the same mechanism. This combination of practical functionality and artistic design makes the Orbis Mundi a standout choice, demonstrating Bovet’s technical prowess in creating complex timepieces.

Récital 23

Récital 23 stands out as a masterpiece of innovation and design. The 43mm high and 28.7mm wide oval case features brilliant diamonds encrusted onto every inch of the bezel. The off-centre, hand-decorated dial at six o’clock also features diamonds as hour markers, which shine brilliantly against the backdrop, resembling a starry night sky. To add functionality, a 3D moon phase indicator is placed at 12 o’clock. For a little romantic touch, the hour and minute hands are designed to form a heart every hour, making it a subtle yet endearing detail to this magnificent piece.

Beyond its unique form, the Récital 23 is powered by a self-winding movement boasting a 62-hour power reserve. Much like the hand-decorated details on the front, the exhibition caseback also features a hand-engraved “Fleurisanne” design. The level of craftsmanship and attention to detail in the Récital 23 exemplify Bovet’s dedication to creating watches that are not only technically impressive but also visually resplendent.

Bovet by Pininfarina

The collaboration between Bovet and the renowned Italian automotive design firm Pininfarina has created a collection of exceptional watches that seamlessly blend aesthetics and engineering. The Bovet by Pininfarina OttantaSei and Sergio models are characterised by avant-garde design, innovative case shapes, and a focus on aerodynamics. Similarly, the Bovet Battista Tourbillon pays homage to the new vision of Bovet while also taking inspiration from the revolutionary Battista Hyper-GT, one of the most remarkable design ideas of Pininfarina. Accordingly, these watches represent the brand’s foray into modern, cutting-edge design while preserving Bovet’s heritage’s essence.

Over the years, Bovet has created a remarkable legacy rooted in technological innovations relevant to the time. And with each passing year, it continues to push the boundaries of horological excellence, offering collectors and connoisseurs new chapters in its storied tradition.